Plastruct Plastic Weld w/applicator 2oz Bottle

As avid builders/collectors, we decided to give this a try on our Lego products and it works like a charm! It doesn’t cause any discoloration or warping, and adheres like a dream. The only thing to note is that the fumes can be a little intense if you aren’t prepared for them, so I highly recommend using it in a well-ventilated area if you plan to use it for a prolonged period of time. Other than the fumes, I have 0 complaints. 10/10 would recommend.

I was not sure if this was the right type of solvent glue for what I needed to fix but decided to take a chance. It works great, and saved a fridge shelf bracket that broke (and would have eventually required replacing the fridge itself if not able to fix) and the cracked outer drawer casing on my air fryer. I can't say anything about evaporation - I expect this type of solvent glue would be more prone to evaporating so close it tightly.

"Glue" or "adhesive" is not the right word for this stuff. It is a solvent that makes the surface of the plastic gooey so the pieces stick together as if they were molded that way, so it welds the pieces together; thus the name Plastic Weld. I was looking at buying the Plastruct sheet assortment to make a case for my Raspberry Pi & 5" LCD when I saw this stuff listed as "frequently bought together". As soon as I saw it I knew I wanted it.I fully expected this to have a very annoying stench and knowing that "dung happens" (as the Feb 29 reviewer detailed), before I opened the bottle I took a small cardboard box & cut a hole in the top to use as an anti-topple stand for this stuff. As it turns out it doesn't stink any worse than the common "Testors"(TM) cement, but I still did the work in my garage to keep the smell out of the house.The instructions say to put the pieces together and then apply a "drop" of the solvent to the joint & it will wick into the joint. Well, apparently if you cut the pieces nice & straight & smooth the stuff can't wick into the joint OR else it just evaporated too fast in my cold garage, because the joints broke very easily if I did it that way. You can see in the image of the easily broken bond that the plastic was only bonded at the very edge of the joint, not all across it. What worked best for me was to put a bead of the liquid on the surface where I wanted to bond another piece & then press the other piece onto the bead (see photos of "lay a bead..." & "making a good bond"). I knew it was going to be good if a bit of plastic oozed from the joint. ;~)I tried this stuff on polycarbonate and polypropylene and it worked well on the polycarbonate but did not affect the polypropylene. And it didn't work on vinyl blind slats either. I got a good edge bond on a couple of "We'll send you a tote bag if you sign up" cards I got from AARP, but it did break when sufficiently stressed (see photos of "good bond"). You can see in the photo of the broken bond that the surface of the bottom piece is rough all across the width of the bond unlike the bond that broke easily. The ink or whatever they use for the coloring on the front face is impervious to this stuff, though--I had to scrape it off in order to bond to the front of the card.

Works as advertised.

I bought this Plastruct Plastic Weld specifically to assemble a bridge model (see attached pictures) since it was molded in black ABS plastic. All my other glues/cements on hand were geared toward styrene or were cyanoacrylates.And the model manufacturer explicitly recommended "Plastruct Plastic Weld" by name in their instructions.So imagine my surprise when the Plastruct Plastic Weld didn't hold the delicate parts together (not after a few seconds, not after minutes). The delicate pieces would just flopped over under their own weight when released. I might as well have been using water.So in frustration/desperation, I fell back to some on-hand Tamiya 87038 (an excellent product for its primary intended purposes) to assemble the first of the two bridge sections. But it was a long painful process as the parts "welded" very slowly and not very strongly with many repeat attempts.Then a light bulb went on "Read the instructions of the Plastruct Plastic Weld bottle" (the recommended step when all else fails). But alas, still no joy there either as it didn't say anything that I hadn't already tried. And it just reinforced that it was indeed intended for ABS and should be working.Then the second light bulb went on, "SHAKE IT UP". Bingo! The pieces bonded sufficiently in mere seconds where I could move on to the next piece quickly. I assembled the second bridge section in a tiny fraction of the time of the 1st one using the now-shaken Plastruct Plastic Weld. And the fully-set welds the next day were much stronger than those of the 1st bridge (which I subsequently went back and fixed up with Plastruct Plastic Welds).The Plastruct Plastic Weld also was easy enough to apply and it flowed well into joints via capillary action.The only real negative I encountered was that the in-bottle brush is quite fat. And although that somewhat depends on what you are welding, this is intended for scale model assembly after all. So it seems WAY too big (particularly in contrast to the excellent very-fine point of the Tamiya in-bottle brush). After all, I'm not trying to weld black ABS pipes for my house's toilet lines. For that, I go to Lowe's and get some Oatey's.I decided not to take away any stars from Plastruct Plastic Weld for not including SHAKE BEFORE USE in their instructions/label although I was really tempted. This may be the issue behind several of the negative reviews that I have read about it being ineffective. So please, Plastruct, update your label.