DC Block Audio Grade Mains Filter & Direct Current Blocker (Black)

I got one of this for the amp at first, and like the result. Then got another one for the source equipments. They clean up the power and make sound more transparent.

I did not perceive there to be any problems with the electricity in my system, I purchased the DC Blocker in the hopes of better sound. As I was plugging it in, I was having skeptical thoughts, figuring that it would likely go back. I hit the power button on the amp and was absolutely ShOcKeD! The improvement in sound quality jumped straight out at me. It was like putting a new battery in your Accord and all of sudden you have a 700hp V-12 Ferrari! All aspects of the audio are improved. The biggest difference is in the mids. Vocals are more holographic and real. Hugh increase in separation, clarity, layering, etc. Insert the whole audiophile lexicon because you name it, it was doing it. I skimmed my way through around 500 songs and counting. I have tested this DC Blocker with 2 different amps, one 240 volt and one running 120v and both were vastly improved (audiolab 6000a and Rotel A11 Tribute). I like both amps, but the 6000a is definitely superior in terms of straight up sound quality -mainly in bass articulation. This DC blocker will do the most good on amps. I've tried it on partnering equipment and performance seemed a bit enhanced but I don't know if I could tell in a blind A/B test. Results will be most dramatic on amps. I would guess that it will produce the best results on mid and high level equipment because crappy power is the only thing left holding them back. It's output plug is IEC (most amps use this input) so you can't use it with any old plug without an adapter. It is limited in it's output to 300 watts although the fuse is for 4 amps so it would likely handle a bit more. Powering a receiver would likely work out great as long as you don't crank it on 8 channels. This will not feed a whole 12 outlet power strip but there is an small IEC power strip available here on Amazon and you could likely power an amp, dac and a disc player at the same time. It is a little disheartening to realize how badly our gear is being served by the terrible quality of our electrical grid. Your gear is way better than you think it is! Even if you don't think you have a problem with your power, you must try this audiolab DC Blocker. This little device was a bigger upgrade than buying new speakers and cost a pittance in audiophile terms. To the naysayers and snake oil proclaimers, there is much to be skeptical about in audio, but I challenge you to send this little guy back. I own two of these. Some day, one of them will go to my heirs. The other will be placed under my head and buried with me for holographic sound in the afterlife. Let's face it, hell likely has dc on the mains.

I treated myself to a very high end Woo Audio Headphone Amp with some very nice headphones and, well, this rig reveals EVERYTHING. Bad recordings, microphonic tubes, and bad power. Based on my sitting position, I had to plug the Woo into one of our standard outlets and got a LOT of hum. I was very disappointed. However, when I plugged the Woo into the PS Audio P5 power conditioner that feeds my main hifi system and is connected to a dedicated power line from the main breaker box and the Woo was dead silent without any hum, I knew I had two options: a very long cord from the P5 to the Woo or another power conditioner. Then I came across this little magic box and based on the price I figured there is no risk trying it. I just plugged it in for the first time and wow, all hum is gone. I turned on all troublesome power users in the house (dimmers, TV, smart devices, towel warmer, etc.) and still, the Woo is dead silent when fed by the Audiolab. I cannot recommend this little black or silver box highly enough. As the title says....worth every penny and honestly, then some. For comparison, the PS Audio P5 ran $5k when new. $129 for the Audiolab is an absolute steal.

I bought this Audiplab to reduce transformer hum in my amplifier caused by 60hz line interference in my house. It did absolutely nothing to reduce hum in the torroidal transformers. Waste of money.

So I have an old Marantz model sixteen (see photo) that had a tiny bit of transformer hum; not enough to hear with the system on but still not good for an amp it’s age (I don’t want to lose this baby to dirty power). So after power conditioning, changing out dimmer switches on the same breaker, troubleshooting appliances, lights, etc. on the same breaker, I finally came to the conclusion that I had some DC offset that needed to be addressed. Hooked up this bad boy along with a crossover (see below) to get back to a female USA AC outlet because the Marantz power cord is wired directly to the amp, and voila! Hum was at least cut in half if not more. So just to test the water I unplugged the 16 and plugged my Furman power conditioner right into the Audiolab; now it’s cleaning my whole rig and the hum was reduced a tiny bit more. Dollar for dollar the best improvement in sound I’ve made yet, at least right up there with room treatment. Highly recommend!!! If you’ve got clean power already it may not make a difference but it made a huge impact on my setup. FYI there are two cables in the box, both plug into the Audiolab, one end goes to an amp (slotted female IEC connector) and the other end is a standard US male plug (to plug into a wall, surge protector, power conditioner, etc.) I also purchased the female zdyCGTime 3 prong USA C14 to NEMA 5-15R (female) plug power adapter so that I could get the Audiolab between the wall and the power conditioner. Audiophiles shouldn’t hesitate on this purchase, if you can’t hear the difference immediately, return it. Update: after adding my Snell 750 subwoofer amp to the Audiolab, I blew the fuse. Good news is there is an included spare fuse in the fuse holder.