2-Drawer Vertical File Espresso Cabinet with Black Accents,

I give this 5 stars for looks, function and price. It is laminated particle board, but it looks great and you'd have to examine it closely to determine that it is not real wood. I've looked at solid wood file cabinets and they're 5-10 times the price and definitely not worth it for my purpose. I'm using it for a home non-business office and the size is exactly what I was after and didn't see anything that came close, especially in real wood.As others have stated, it is just like assembling IKEA furniture. I took my time and got it together in 2 hrs and 40 minutes. The pictures and parts are all labeled, with each set of parts in a segmented bag and presented in the order needed. Just tear open each as you work through the instructions. They give you the exact quantity you need in each segment and the last bag contains some extra parts that I didn't even need.I cheated and used a 1/4" impact driver to drive the cam screws in. It saved me a lot of time, but you have to be careful not to overdrive as you'll strip the holes in the particle board. I had no problems.The lock is a deterrent, but should not be considered a security item. If someone broke into it, they'd have to mar the surface to get in and you'd know it was breached, but it won't stop a burglar rummaging through your house when you're not home. Anything needing that kind of protection should be locked in a safe anyway.I just started loading it and with two drawers open, it did tip over. No problem I was right in front of it to catch it, but the drawers weren't full, so it surprised me being that it has a relatively low profile. That's probably one of the reasons the lock is on the top drawer. If you had young kids, lock the top, hide the key and they couldn't pull it over on themselves. It'll never tip over with the bottom drawer alone.I saw a comment about the drawers not being able to hold a lot of weight. They weren't meant to be used as drawers for anything other than hanging files. The drawer bottoms are made of 1/8" pressed laminate that slide into 1/8" grooves that are routed out on all 4 sides of the drawer bottom. It is reinforced with a 3/4" X 2" solid wood slat in the middle of the drawer that runs from front to back giving a bit more support to the 1/8" thick bottom, but you wouldn't want to stack a lot of heavy stuff in it.It's more file space than I need, so I'm going to use some expandable hanging files to load non-file folder crap in in it. The structure for holding the files is very strong, as 1/8" X 1/2" flat metal stock fits tightly into wood cutouts in the drawer sides and the folders hang from them, bearing no weight on the bottom of the drawers. If your file folders could hold 10 lb. weights, the frames would have no trouble supporting them. If I had to guess, I'd say you could load about 10 lbs.of stuff on each side of the drawer bottoms with no worries; mainly because that center support is there.The inside of each drawer measures 25 1/2" Wide X 13.5" (Front to back) X 11.5" Deep. You can run 2 sets of the standard 12 1/2" hanging folders side by side from front to back in both the top and bottom drawers. There are optional steel flat bars that will allow you to run two of the files left to right inside the drawers instead of front to back..Hope this helps. I'm very happy with it and would recommend it to anyone if it fits your size and needs.

I bought two of these. NOTE: ASSEMBLY IS REQUIRED. What you get is a box of parts and the hardware to attach them together. This was a surprise to me, and looking back at the product page I still don't see this mentioned. Not a big deal for me, but if you are a klutz or just don't want to screw things together and glue dowels, this might not be for you. A baggie of spare parts is thoughtfully included, which I didn't need since no parts were missing (yay!). Glue is also included (yes, there is gluing to do). The tools you need are a Phillips screwdriver and a rubber hammer (ideally, but a regular one would work), for tapping in dowels and other parts. I used a cordless drill with a Phillips bit, which I highly recommend.Assembling the first unit took me about 3 hours. Second unit took half that time, because instead of adding one type of hardware to all panels and then going on to the next type of hardware (as instructed), I added all the hardware each panel needed and then moved on to the next panel. I recommend doing it this way because you'll handle the panels a lot less. The order in which you attach the bits of hardware is not important, just make sure you do all of them.Tip #1: when you assemble the case, be sure you attach the two back panel pieces (#7 and #8) together first, then attach them as a single piece to the other parts. I didn't notice this mentioned in the instructions.Tip #2: I applied glue to all the exposed wood edges, not just the dowels as mentioned in the instructions. This should make the joints more solid and long-lasting. The hardware for tightening everything together works very well. The finished cabinets are very sturdy and stable.One last caveat - there is no hardware provided for a single row of sideways-hung files running across the whole drawer. You can setup each drawer for two blocks of forward-facing 8-1/2 x 11 files side by side, or for one block of sideways-hung 8-1/2x11 and one block of forward-facing legal size.