Highland 2006200 Black Heavy Duty Bar Carrier

Installed on my 96 jeep cherokee.These installed in minutes. A 1/2" socket on a drill and a ratcheting box wrench made it even quicker. Hardest part is drilling the hole.Note theese do jangle where the two telescoping bars meet. On a long drive this will drive you insane. Passengers will ask what is wrong with your car. The solution I found was to assemble and install them and drill the hole. Then unscrew just the cross bar portion, slide it out and wrap electrical tape around the thinner inside bar in a few places where they overlap. Then I used a 5lb. maul to drive them back together with the electrical tape keeping it stiff and preventing any vibration. Reinstall and no jingle jangle. Seem stivverr too.Only other advice is when possible ratchet strap from the bar, over your load, and back to the same bar instead of ratcheting from bar to bar. The racks are plenty sturdy, but the rain gutter on the car itself seems more resistant to up down forward and back motions and less resistant to the twisting motion caused by ratcheting the bars toward eachother.

Heavy duty coated steel brackets. It fits Chevy cargo vans. Not sure about all models but mine is 2008. Some reviewer said it doesn't fit Chevy vans years 2000 to 2010. I bought it anyway thinking that reviewer really didn't know what he was talking about..and I was right. They fit perfectly. That reviewer didn't know what he was talking about at all. He said he only "dry fit" them...meaning he set them on the van rail without actually tightening them down..and then said that don't fit. So he didn't really even try to assemble them.The only gripe (not really a big one) is that after you clamp down the brackets you should have the connecting cylinder poles inserted through each other (like an adjustable shower curtain rod) and the 'outer' pole has 2 holes (as guide holes) to drill through the inner tube. Then you're supposed to attach a bolt and nut (which are included) through them to securely fasten them from moving. So my only tiny gripe is that you will need your own drill to make that hole. I'm kinda using these racks only temporarily to haul plywood so I didn't even drill those holes like instructed (to keep the product as re-sale possible) and it's STILL very sturdy. Each individual bracket is securely attached to the gutter of the van. It really doesn't even need that drill-hole connecting bolt to haul what I need to do. If you're going to keep them on permanently, then yes, I would probably put that bolt through the drill-hole. I'm just going to packing tape the poles at their connecting point..because, to me, that's all I really need to use them temporarily.I can imagine when installed with that proper drill-hole bolt these racks could take a nuclear blast. lolInstallation tip: Tighten the two lower bolts to where they are close, but not touching up against their opposite bracket..allow for small amount of 'play'. Then screw down the top bolt so that the curved lower lip securely touches the underside of the van gutter(but not tighten completely) ..then go back and tighten the original 2 bolts a bit further until the outer bracket part is firmly against the outer part of the van gutter(the outer and inner bracket should still have a couple of mm in-between them at this point) Now tighten down the top bolt firmly (it may not make the upper and lower bracket completely touch. That's ok) Then to back to tightening the 2 lower bolts firmly and completely. Use your hand to try and shake the rack. It shouldn't move whatsoever. Go back over all of the bolts and make sure all are firmly tightened. Do not use excessive force, you could break a bolt or something. Enjoy your new rack.Thanks, I'll be here all week. ;-)

I paid just over $50 and for your money, this is an excellent product and deal. I thought it was high quality and it's easy to install. The only hard portion of the install is the fact that you must drill a hole into the telescopic bar and install a bolt. You will need a 5/16 drill bit to do this. If you are handy and have the tools, this only takes a few minutes. I highly recommend.**Update** After I installed the rack I noticed a significant rattle coming from the rack while driving. I solved the problem by drilling a second hole in each bar and adding a second bolt. Really crank down on both bolts to ensure there is no movement. I had to go buy a nut and bolt. Keep in mind that you may have to drill 2 holes in each bar instead of one. I dropped my rating to 4 stars. I think it is still a very good deal for the money.

I haven't installed it quite yet but I did do a dryfit to see where things met up, but wanted to share my insanely detailed scheme for preventing rust and deterioration since I'm on the Oregon coast (and my van is white). Used 1/4" ID x 5/8" OD washers everywhere a bolt met another piece of metal. Warning - get bigger ID washers, these bolts are over 1/4" so it was a struggle to get 'em on. Thinner flat rubber washers on the outside of the brackets where all the fasteners come through - be sure to get washers that have a large enough id here, also. I ended up using rubber cement on the large washers to glue them to the brackets, they wanted to curl up from the pressure exerted by the bolts.I used pieces of closed cell foam packing between the rails and the brackets, a piece of split fuel line on the bracket piece that rests in the drip rail as suggested by another reviewer, and pieces of vacuum belt (also rubber cemented) where the bracket meets the bottom/side of the drip rail and where the 2 bracket pieces meet when tightened. I had to use clamps on the rail mounting pieces to get the nuts started because those fasteners are so short, but once fastened they're good, the foam I used was about 1/4" thick but it compressed well and that's what I wanted.Then I found a piece of plastic strap that luckily happened to be tapered a bit toward each edge and rubber cemented that to the inner rail where the 2 rails meet to take up the slop between the 2 and prevent water intrusion.I opted not to use the thru bolt on the rails - if you shim to take out the slop it's unnecessary, they aren't going anywhere after it's mounted.After install I will caulk that hole shut and seal up the union between the 2 rails where it's shimmed.I'd dare this bastid to rust but that'd be tempting fate in the great soggy pacific northwest.Will report back after a winter or two.Overall, the unit finish looks bulletproof, no faults ithat I dould see. I will protect the rails with cardboard or something when I'm hauling stuff to prevent breaking the finish.